Monday, June 10, 2013

Backpacking in Belize Vegan Style

People sometimes ask me if it is difficult to be vegan and to travel. My answer is that while there may be some small challenges, nowadays it's easier than ever to travel anywhere and maintain one's vegan lifestyle. All you need is a simple strategy and a positive attitude. My husband and I are both vegans, and we had an amazing time in Belize! Here are some tips for traveling vegan in Belize. The first part of my strategy was to research what vegan options exist in Belize. I carefully perused my Lonely Planet guidebook, highlighting any restaurants that mentioned having vegetarian options, with the idea that they could probably be easily veganized, Then I searched www.happycow.net and printed out their few suggestions as well to take along with me. The second part of my strategy was to be prepared in the case of no vegan food options, which means to pack lots of yummy vegan snacks! Packing snacks also helps to save money on food as well, which is a plus for us because as teachers we always travel on a budget. My backpack was quite full, so I had to decide between packing another cute summer dress or my packages of seaweed which take up a lot of room. This hard core vegan foodie chose the seaweed of course! The top of my backpack was loaded with kale chips, trail mix, seaweed, cactus jerky,organic dark chocolate, and Lara Bars.  Here are the snacks I packed. Next, I made sure we were prepared to be well fed for the journey. The night before we left I made some sandwiches with almond flax seed butter and fig butter to take on the flight with us. I also made these scrumptious breakfast sandwiches that my son Trevor invented. Whenever we fly somewhere in the morning I make these. They are made of whole wheat organic English muffins, Trader Joe's hash brown patties, vegan Canadian bacon (non GMO), and tomato slices. They are so tasty! Once we were through security and were waiting at the gate for our flight, we ate these. I looked around and I felt so bad for other people I saw eating unhealthy Egg McMuffins from McPoo as we were eating our super delicious vegan breakfast sandwiches! When we arrived in Belize City, unfortunately we missed the last boat to our destination, the island Caye Caulker, known as a backpackers' paradise. This meant we had to stay one night in Belize City. We booked into the simple, affordable Sea Breeze Guesthouse, and then we decided to try a recommendation from the Lonely Planet for dinner. We walked over to the Samathi Restaurant for Indian food. Indian food is almost always a good option for vegans, just be sure to specify that you don't want your food prepared with ghee (clarified butter) or served with any dairy like yogurt. The waiter assured us that they used no ghee, only vegetable oil, so we had a delicious vegan Indian feast consisting of okra, chana masala, aloo gobi, garlic naan, and rice, before retiring to bed after a long day of travel. The next morning we headed over to the dock to catch the boat to Caye Caulker. Breakfast consisted of fresh squeezed pineapple juice from a little snack shop called Anna's Lunchbox, and a Lara Bar. This was perfect for me as I normally start my days off with either a fresh juice or a smoothie. Once we arrived at Caye Caulker and checked into our beachfront cabana at the Costa Maya, we explored the charming town. It quickly became apparent that eating vegan was going to be much easier than the first time we traveled here which was about 14 years ago. I could immediately see that much progress had been made for vegan dining options in the 14 years that we were last at Caye Caulker. Almost all of the restaurants had vegetarian options which could be easily veganized; and a couple even listed the word "vegan" on their menus whereas 14 years ago, the veg options were few and far between. This is evidence that the Vegan Revolution is expanding everywhere! When we jumped off the boat and were walking to our cabana, a man selling cakes on a cart approached us, and I told him "No, thank you, we are vegan." I wondered if he would understand what I meant, and he replied, "Oh, good for you! That's so much healthier! I don't eat any meat either! Because of my gout! The doctor told me to stop eating meat." So one of the first locals we talked to was already hip to the idea of veganism, and was aware of the health benefits! The reason for our trip to Belize was to celebrate our 16th wedding anniversary. For our anniversary lunch, we ate at a beach front place called the Chat 'n Chill. I ordered a veggie pizza that was easily veganized by simply asking them to omit the cheese. With so many veggies and a flavorful tomato sauce, you don't miss the cheese at all. For our anniversary dinner, we decided to eat at the Rainbow Grill overlooking the water. Their menu contained many vegetarian choices, and we ended up ordering the veggie fajitas, but of course we didn't eat the sour cream. The homemade tortillas were delicious, and the view was so romantic. The waiter at the Rainbow Grill told us how growing up he mostly ate vegetarian because his mother was a vegetarian who was a serious health nut. She was into medicinal herbs and using food as medicine. I tell you this story because even in countries that are known as having a cuisine that centers around meat such as Belize, you will find vegetarians and vegans amongst the local people. Our go-to place for breakfast was a charming spot called the Paradiso Cafe owned by an American couple and located just a couple doors down from our cabana. They had lots of vegan options like fresh fruit smoothies and bagels with hummus. One day I had a delectable veggie sandwich on crusty French bread with lots of fresh veggies, avocado, and a vinaigrette. It was easily veganized by requesting no mayo and no cheese. Another one of our favorite places we discovered is called Carribean Coolers. It's located on the second floor, and it's part art gallery, part cafĂ©. They had yummy liquados (fresh fruit smoothies), like this one made of banana, papaya, pineapple, and watermelon. It was fun to sit on their balcony which overlooks the main drag of the town, and to people watch. Carribean Coolers also served vegan sushi, which we were so excited about! It was even noted as "vegan" on their menu! In the middle of our trip, we stayed a couple nights on the mainland in a very small town called Burrell Boom, at a hotel called the Black Orchid on the Old Belize River. While the hotel gardens and river are very beautiful, I'm sorry to say that I give them a thumbs down for vegan dining. Their menu was extremely meat-centric with few veg options and overpriced for what it was. We had the vegetable linguini and the breakfast burritos which we asked them to veganize, but neither were very good. However, we weren't bothered because it was a beautiful place and of course, we had snacks! We also rode bikes to a nearby little market and bought a big avocado and some fresh baked bread which filled us up. The hotel seemed to cater to the crowds of American missionaries who stay there, and judging by the menus, I guess Christian missionaries really like meat a lot, which doesn't make much sense to me. I didn't take any food photos as I was not inspired, but here are a few photos of the Black Orchid. The purpose of our stay on the mainland was to visit the Mayan world. We booked a tour to visit the ancient Lamanai ruins and pyramids. Lunch was included in the tour, so I was sure to inform them that we are vegan when we booked the tour. They assured us that they understood what veganism meant, and they said they could accommodate us. After a spectacular boat ride where we spotted monkeys and all types of exotic birds up the Old Belize River, we arrived at Lamanai, and a lovely buffet style lunch was laid out for all of us on the tour. We ate rice and beans cooked in coconut milk, spicy salsa, watermelon, papaya, green salad, and plantains. There was plenty for vegans, and it was one of the best meals we had. On the tour we met a young American from Florida who told us how he had recently moved to Belize with his dad, as his dad had purchased property there. He was vegan too so we bonded with him! I did not take a photo of the satisfying lunch, but here is a photo of one of the pyramids we climbed up. After our trip to Lamanai, we returned to the Costa Maya Cabanas at Caye Caulker for the remainder of our vacation. One day while ambling around town, we stumbled upon what turned out to be the best meal of our trip. A man had set up a table on the sand with huge pots of bubbling dishes with a mouth-watering aroma. He introduced himself as "The Budget Man"! He told us his life story, how he was from New York but he became disenchanted with city life and living in a concrete jungle, so he decided to move to Belize. We explained we are vegan, and he enthusiastically said "No problem! I have something for you and all vegetarians! I take care of everyone!" We ordered the veggie plate which was a generous serving of coconut rice, along with a heaping amount of veggies in a curry sauce. The veggie dish had huge chunks of potatoes along with lots of other types of veggies. It was served with a side of plantains and the Budget Man's signature homemade hot sauce that had a nice kick to it. We found a spot on the beach and ate it while watching the waves. Pure bliss! Speaking of hot sauce, in Belize there is one type of hot sauce that you will see everywhere. It is called Marie Sharp's, and yes, it is vegan! I also want to mention the Chinese take away restaurant which is attached to one of the main markets in town, you can't miss it. It is basically Chinese fast food, and they have tons of vegan options on their menu like tofu chow mein, vegetable fried rice, and more. It is not expensive either so good for vegan budget travelers like us! You order it then eat it on the beautiful beach. For our last night on Caye Calker, we ate at a really fun place called the Reef Bar. We had homemade vegan black bean burgers with all the fixings including mushrooms and jalapenos. This bar is so fun because they have live music, board games, and trivia night. One word of caution: make sure to always ask for "rice and beans" as opposed to "beans and rice". On the advice of Lonely Planet, one night we experimented and tried ordering "beans and rice" thinking that we would get the rice and beans served separately as opposed to the beans mixed into the rice, which is typical Belizean style. This was a mistake! We were served plain rice, with a thimble of refried beans. A thimble! It was so hard not to laugh when the waiter brought our food, because we were not expecting that! Being from California, we are used to big sides of beans and rice, so this was very funny to us. Also, I want to mention something not related to food, but related to veganism and animals. I was very impressed with the condition of the dogs that live on Caye Caulker. I did not see a single stray the whole time I was there. Every dog I saw had a collar and looked well taken care of. The dogs there are so happy living the island life, and they are allowed to roam free all over the island. They are welcome in any restaurant and bar. I did see a small Humane Society on the island, and one of the expatriates I met said they do try to take care of the animals there. The Belizean people that I met are also conservation minded and believe in protecting their coral reef and their wildlife such as the manatees and the turtles, to name just a few of the magnificent species home to Belize. When our trip came to an end and it was time to go, my eyes welled up with tears as I was sad to leave this most magical place with such warm, kind, friendly people. However, we vowed to return soon and bring our kids with us next time. I bought snacks from a local street vendor for the journey home: fresh cashews, dried plantains,and banana chips. In sum, it is possible to have a wonderful time as a vegan in Belize. You can enjoy delicious local food, soak in the culture, and interact with the local people all while traveling as a vegan. You don't miss out on anything traveling as a vegan, and that's the truth. On the contrary, traveling vegan enhances the experience for me, because I still feel healthy. I know many people who when they return from a trip, they complain about how much weight they gained and how unhealthy and awful they feel. When you travel vegan, you sample delicious local cuisine but without all of the fatty, cholesterol-laden animal products, so you don't gain weight and you feel incredible when you return! Also, it's wonderful to travel as a vegan because you can serve as a Vegan Ambassador of sorts, and help to spread veganism around the world as well. It only takes a positive attitude and just a little planning to have a wonderful vegan vacation. Here is one final photo of the Lazy Lizard. Happy vegan travels!